New Religiosities

A collection of photographs from the project - "Worlding the City : The Futures of Bangalore".

Bangalore city - see how it has grown !!
 

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In 1949, the twin municipalities of Bangalore City and Cantonment were brought together in the Bangalore City Corporation. A pete founded in the 16th century and a cantonment established in the 19th century were administratively united in the 20th century. More important, two distinct cultures, linguistic territories and spatial identities, separated by a swathe of parkland and institutional areas -- stretching from the Indian Institute of Science in the North west through the Palace Grounds, Golf course and Cubbon Park, to the Mental Hospital in the south east -- were joined. Some of the older divisions continue to haunt the city to this day, as the ‘east-west zonation’ of the city continues. Others have disappeared over the past fifty years as new challenges and opportunities have been thrown up, continually transforming the shape of the city and the lives of its people. First wrenched out of its existence as a divided town to become a big city in the 1970s, Bangalore was startled into the recognition that it was already a metropolis by the 1980s, hurtling towards a destiny it only reluctantly acknowledges, and for which it is largely unprepared. While the population has increased from 7.79 lakhs in 1951 to more than 50 lakhs by the turn of the century, the city has expanded far beyond the 66 sq km of that time to a conurbation area of 449 sq km today.


Bangalore is at once the capital of Karnataka state, the home of several large scale public sector industries and their ancillaries -- and more recently the infotech and garment industries -- and gateway to styles of globalised consumption. Thus the city has always been marked by regional, national and global forces and interests in very definite ways. These interests lay claim to the city, its many pasts, and possible futures, and thereby make it their own. If the middle class locality once wore the proud badge of the public sector company (e.g. HAL Second Stage), today the dream of dollars lends it name to entire colonies (e.g. Dollar Colony). If there once were areas of the city where Kannada was rarely heard, (e.g. Fraser Town) as the city is reterritorialised today, a more assertive voice of the region is heard (e.g. Pulakeshi Nagara). From a time when local market-gardeners (Tigalas) prided themselves on growing European fruits, flowers, and vegetables for the colonial master, on farms scattered across the city, to a time when global foods crowd the supermarket shelf, internationalised tastes are widely cultivated and encouraged. The tank bed, once considered open or waste land, fit only for occupation by the poor, is the most contested site in Bangalore today. Consequently, the city is a far more disturbed zone, a restless territory which rarely conforms to the planners’ map or the administrators’ designs.


From a town of tanks and vineyards, low walled compounds and walkable distances in the 1950s, the city has spread in all directions, unhindered by any natural boundaries. The growing middle class thirst for sites has consumed farmland and village, within and beyond corporation limits, displacing thousands from market-gardening communities, and transforming the urban fabric. By the late 1970s, the city found a new vertical orientation, and apartments and multistoried office blocks soon became not just a necessity but a desirable address. In the late 1990s, the metropolis has continued to expand both upward and outward, the grid of the layout marching on over farm and tank bed, on the one hand, while high rise structures crowd out small lanes.


At which historical moment may we say that the city has taken its final shape? All developments produce new spaces as much as they breathe life into older ones. A space designed for military activities was turned into the metropolis’ most desirable business district (MG Road area). A cinema hall yielded space to a shopping complex (e.g.Alankar and Minerva). A tank bed was throttled with buildings (e.g.Millers’ Tank) and the city stretched beyond the bicycle’s reach. In the early 1970s, bicycles were the dominant mode of transport in the city (accounting for 71 per cent of daily passenger trips): today the city is ferociously automobilised, and one-way streets make Bangalore unfamiliar to older residents. The neighbourhood no longer meets the needs of all people for work, education or leisure; the metropolis requires corridors of speed which bypass or flyover the thick profusion of city life on the ground. The imaginary boundary of the green belt has given way to a new girdle that is thrown around the city, the Ring Road.


At the same time, the need for globalised spaces - five star hotels, golf courses or tech parks which conform to international standards -- takes uneasy precedence over the democratic demands of the poor or underprivileged for water, housing, public transport. The privacies of the privileged can no longer be guaranteed in a deeply iniquitous city, except in gated apartment blocks with 24 hour security systems, a new, sometimes tyrannical privacy. And no part of the city’s development has occurred without its costs. The story of Kempegowda’s triumph as a city founder was also the story of Lakshmamma’s sacrifice. The metropolis is not just a place where people live, love and die, but a space founded on contests, pain, loss, negotiation and even violence. Beneath every monumental edifice, every architectural masterpiece, every idyllic advertisement, are transactions that are not always just, negotiations that are sometimes reversed, and people who are dispossessed. Within the unity that was declared in 1949, then, there are many cities of Bangalore.


Yet, in a democracy such as ours, people make their own meanings of urban space, in both physical-material and mental-imaginative ways. The two dimensional map may be only one limited way of getting to know the territory of the city. Territories are marked and used in ways that were not anticipated by planners and designers. These are moments in a city’s history that are not usually memorialised in stone, recorded in texts, or captured in photographs. Yet they tell us much that is different from the triumphal procession of heroes and victors in usual histories of the city. This exhibition offers a different perspective, free of nostalgia for other times (e.g. the colonial past) or yearning for unreal spaces ( e.g. Singapore). Because only an unsentimental look at the city of our time may help us imagine a possible future.


- Janaki Nair

 
 
 
 
New Religiosities

The open spaces in front of important temple complexes such as Kadu Malleswara (Malleswaram) and Someswara (Ulsoor) temples, the shady church compound of St Mark’s Church or the spacious quiet of the Millers’ Road Idgah offer a moment of quiet withdrawal from the bustle of everyday life when people congregate in prayer. But there are also the temples and dargahs that crop up on the pavement and serve as a frequent reminder of new religiosities that meet the transient needs of the city dweller or fresh immigrant. The city exults in several new Gods and Goddesses as well as new modes of worship and thanksgiving.

The fortunes of deities rise and fall as the city grows and changes. Santoshi Maa and Vaibhava Lakshmi enjoyed brief glory. Annamadevi of Subedar Chatram Road was once a reigning deity of the city, but today vies for public attention with hundreds of other gods and goddesses around the city. The Karaga remains a focal event of the old city area, just as people throng the Russell Market square for St Mary’s Feast. Many older female deities of the city have been transformed. Over a hundred year period, the terrible malevolence of Plagueamma at NR Colony has today been transformed into the domestic Rajarajeshwari, and given a new status in the mainstream Hindu order. The guardian of the Indian troops at the Dandu (cantonment), Dandamariamma, has been ‘nationalised’ by the appearance of the Mahatma alongside. Several new deities and religious personalities have become immensely popular: Shirdi Sai Baba, the dargah of Pir Syed Hyder Shah Jilani and Infant Jesus attract vast crowds of worshipers. Shani devata is on the ascendent, with many temples mushrooming in the metropolis. The city is generously peppered with black clothed devotees of Iyappa during the season at Sabarimala . And many women gurus today enjoy large followings.

New fears and fantasies produce their own deities, endowing them with novel powers whether over speed on the Ring Road or over AIDS. Well lit displays in shop windows invite the worship of commodities. Commerce and religiosity have always intertwined, but how much more awesome is the gigantic temple/shop complex (Kemp Fort/Shiva), glowing well into the night. Hundreds and even thousands participate in specially organised group worship, whether for Sathyanarayana Vratha or Sankushta Chathurthi, and ticket sales have been brisk business for some temples. The widespread use of mechanical devices such as cassettes and loudspeakers, or electrically powered drum and cymbal machines, have changed the meaning and content of devotion.

Thanksgiving takes interesting shapes. An aeroplane motif on the dome of the Harihareswara temple at Gavipuram commemorates the war time profits of (parachute) silk manufacturers. And the Thursday newspapers are awash with expressions of thanks to Infant Jesus.

Ascending fortunes: Shani shrine at Hale Tippasandra village, 1999 Photo by G. Raghav

 

Ayyappa devotee, Binnamangala village, 2000 Photo by Clare Arni

 

Language as Goddess: Kannada Bhuvaneshwari, 1999 Photo by G. Raghav

 

From Plagueamma to Rajarajeswari, N.R. Colony, 1999 Photo by Clare Arni

 

Goddess of the Files? Bangalore Development Authority office, 1999 Photo by Janaki Nair

 

Amplified devotions: Jumma Masjid, Shivajinagar, 1979 Photo by Elizabeth Staley

 

Mechanised Devotions: Electrically run cymbal/drum/bell machine, 2000 Photo by Clare Arni

 

Thanksgiving: plane motif on Sri Harihareshwara Temple, Gavipuram, 2000 Photo by Clare Arni

 

’Temples of Modern India’: Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru visits HMT Courtesy: Department of Information & Publicity, Karnataka

 

Worship of work: Bharat Earth Movers Ltd., 1999 Photo by G. Raghav

 

Religion as private enterprise: Doorvaninagar, 1999 Photo by Janaki Nair

 

Syncretism of the marketplace: Kadalekayi Parishe, Basavanagudi, 1999 Photo by Clare Arni

 

Domestic syncretism: Murphy Town, 2000 Photo by Clare Arni

 

Worship of commodities, 2000 Photo by Clare Arni

 

Worship amidst commodities: Brigade Road , 1999 Photo by G. Raghav

 

Highway Anjaneya, Babusanpalya, 1999 Photo by Janaki Nair

 

Worship of the spectacle Photo by Clare Arni

 

Devotees throng Shiva statue behind Kemp Fort, Airport Road on Mahashivarathri (25-02-1998) Courtesy: The Printers Mysore (Pvt) Ltd Photo by Leonard Aarons

 

Lal Masjid on Jumma Masjid Road, Shivajinagar (2000) Photo by Clare Arni

 

Syncretic cults: Dargah of Pir Hyder Shah Jilani, 2000 Photo by Clare Arni